Tuesday, February 12, 2013

The Process of Buying a Swim Suit in India


India accepts both the modest & modern dresser. For example, just look at the sari.  The sari itself is six yards of silk which while prominently displaying the belly & back, can also be used to cover the hair & head whenever a woman goes to the temple or performs a puja.  Or look at the long pajama tops now – they are butt-covering, but with very high slits up the sides of the thighs.     
This frame of reference for acceptable India dressing is a perfect backdrop for my bathing suit shopping experience this past weekend.   I made yet another random bathing suit purchase – this is because I can never seem to remember to pack a bathing suit on trips.  It could be interesting to count up the number of countries where I have bought bathing suits.  But that is another story. 
This started when I walked into Blush and asked if they carried Bathing Suits for sale.  First, confusion on their face.  Then, recognition.  They said, yes, we have Bathing Suits for sale.  The sales women takes me to their bra & underwear counter and pulls out what can only be described as a diving suit, head-to- toe covering in spandex (to some, it is affectionately referred to as a Burkini).   
“Do you have anything smaller,” I said. 
The sales lady said, “This is the smallest size we have?” 
“But maybe something with less material?”
“Oh!” More recognition on her face.  She produces another suit which is a full piece bathing suit, but with extra ruffles to cover the butt and shoulders.  It comes with a belt.  It has flowers on it. 
Pause. 
Pause.
[We are both lost in translation]
I said immodestly, “Do you sell bikinis?”
“Yes, we sell bikinis.”
The sales lady takes a dirty plastic shoe box hidden from underneath the counter and starts pulling out options.  Tiny options.  Mixed together.  Some have tags.   She wraps my purchase into a brown paper bag, which goes into yet another plastic bag.  Rs 400 later (USD 10), it’s off to the swimming pool. 

Saturday, February 9, 2013

India - Downton Abbey

Where: Bangalore, India
When: Sunday, Feb 10, 2013
In modern day India, you even now get a really good feeling about what it was like to live during the British Colonial Era—at least for Western visitors like me.   This week I’m staying at the Leela Palace which is a 7 star hotel (yes, kind of like an 11 for a stereo) in the heart of Bangalore.  The hotel is an aging ornate Pink Stucco grandiosity with gardens, outdoor terraces, intricate marble floors, and many servants.  The hotel caters to two types of people:
a)      businessmen who have come to this Emerging country to accomplish big things
b)      US or European tourists who want to visit India without actually visiting India
You can see both groups of people here at the pool.  All are pale and trying to get a tan.  This includes me.  At home, we pour our own drinks, carry our own bags, or lay-out our own swimming pool towels.   All is done for you here. 
The first 24 hours in the country are always an adjustment for me because I stubbornly insist on doing everything on my own.  I have caused many kerfuffles in the breakfast room because the latte was taking too long, so I went over to get it myself—or when the jasmine rice on my plate was empty, so I went to refill it from the buffet table set up for my convenience.  And then there was yesterday when instead of taking the chauffeured BMW, I hailed an auto-rickshaw outside the hotel to go shopping on Indiranagar street. 
But the Indian culture has persisted for many generations, so I should know better than to fight it.   It is a service culture through and through.   And I realize that very starkly here – the waiter pouring my Kingfisher beer works with humility.  But he is also proud to be serving me drinks. He specializes in this type of service.   And he is completely unlike an American waitress who may despise me a bit for not having work on a Saturday night. 
 At first, I am uncomfortable with being fussed over.  Or annoyed with the extra time it takes.   But after the second beer, it becomes second nature – you can see how British Royalty could get used to this sort of thing. 
Vinya - My driver from Hyderabad


The Leela from my hotel terrace


Family Running Errands